It’s common to feel a sense of impending doom as you see the waiter approaching to take your order. A bead of sweat forms on your forehead, the words get jumbled, and suddenly your whole life depends on the choice between two pasta options.
The good news is, there is one Miami restaurant whose sole mission is to make this process feel less overwhelming. How? It only serves one entrée: veal Milanese.
Andrea Fraquelli was 19 when he was working at a restaurant in Paris and noticed how many other places in the city offered only steak and chips. This made him wonder if the same concept could work with Milanese. When he asked his father for advice, “He came up with 100 ideas” on why it wouldn’t work, Fraquelli said.
However, with unyielding determination combined with the support of his long-time mentor, Chef Gulio Rossi, Fraquelli was able to bring his vision to life.
Cotoletta, a charming Italian bistro, opened its doors in October 2024, and it has already established its place in the Miami dining scene. Located on the corner of Commodore Plaza and Grand Avenue, the restaurant exudes warm hospitality, combining simplicity with tradition.
As you walk through the doors, you can tell every detail of the interior design is intentional. Teal leather seats and wooden chairs are surrounded by coral pink walls decorated with framed pop art versions of Greek gods and a poster for Italian composer Guiseppe Verdi’s opera “Otello.” One of the walls is covered entirely with tiny, painted scenes in the shape of ties.
Unlike the robotic greetings you might get at a big and busy restaurant chain, the waiters at Cotoletta dance around the tables asking for feedback and make a genuine effort to make you feel welcome and improve your dining experience.
Fabio Zama, Cotoletta’s general manager, says the restaurant’s philosophy, un piatto per tutti (a dish for everyone), is “kind of dictator [approach] in a good way.” Zama added, “We try to do one thing and do it best, so everyone from kids to adults can enjoy it.” The goals of the restaurant are simplicity and bringing Italian authenticity to Miami—one of the factors that distinguishes Cotoletta from other partakers in the new ‘limited menu’ craze.
Fraquelli’s grandfather, Lorenzo, was the inspiration for their vision. In 1955, Lorenzo moved from Italy to London to open the Spaghetti House, which became one of the UK’s first restaurant chains. He accustomed English diners to multi-course dining, with a small portion of pasta on the same plate as the cotoletta—an ode to Italy’s genuine tradition.
The appetizers in the set menu that complement the Cotoletta Milanese are also meant to highlight other elements of the human touch in Italian cuisine. Diners can choose between homemade Spaghetti al Pomodoro e Basilico, house-made zucchini fries, crisp arugula, heritage tomato, and Parmigiano Reggiano salad to be served alongside the veal.
The preparation of the Cotoletta alla Milanese itself is simple. Lightly breaded veal cutlets are delicately cooked in a pan with rosemary and lemon zest.
After finally getting to try the food for myself on a dinner date with my dad, I can confidently say that there is a reason behind why they chose to only make cotoletta alla Milanese. The crispy breading perfectly contrasts with the soft and juicy veal, and the rosemary adds such a nice touch. “It’s unlike anything I’ve had before, and in a good way,” he said.
Other diners said they enjoyed their experience as well, noting that “the quality and environment is really good.” They also explained, “it feels like a warm, hometown place, and we will definitely be back.”
So, although the idea of a dining experience centered on just one dish was a humble experiment at first, Cotoletta’s Italian hospitality and passion-driven approach have made it a success.
